Disclosure

Construction tools: names, pictures and what each one is used for

A complete construction tools list with a picture of every one, all 102 tools and pieces of site equipment grouped by the job, from setting out a building through concrete, masonry, access and demolition. Site work rather than bench work, so the emphasis is on the heavy end.

51 are marked essential: the tools that turn up on almost every job, whatever the trade.

Setting out & levelling 11

Establishing where the building goes and what is level, across distances a spirit level cannot judge. Errors here are inherited by everything built afterwards.

  • A yellow rotary laser level on a tripodEssential

    Rotary laser level

    Spins a level beam right around the site, giving one flat plane you can measure down from anywhere. The practical way to level a plot or a long floor.

  • A handheld laser detector receiver with a clamp

    Laser detector

    Beeps when it crosses the beam, letting a laser be used outdoors where the line is invisible in daylight. Clamps to a staff and turns the laser into a real site tool.

  • A telescopic graduated levelling staff rod

    Levelling staff

    A telescopic graduated rod you hold at each point while reading a level. Sliding to four metres, it turns a laser plane into actual numbers.

  • Optical level: An optical builders level telescope on a tripod

    Optical level

    A telescope on a tripod for reading heights off a staff with real precision. Slower than a laser and still what surveyors trust for long runs.

  • Builder's squareEssential

    Builder's square

    A large fixed right angle for checking corners as you build. Big enough that a small error shows up, unlike a joiner's square held against a wall.

  • A small line level vial with hooks

    Line level

    A small vial that hangs on a taut string, giving a rough level across a span for nothing. Fine for a fence, not for a floor.

  • String line & pins: A builder's string line reel with steel pinsEssential

    String line & pins

    The reference every wall is built to. Pulled tight between profiles, it beats any straight edge over distance and costs almost nothing.

  • Profile boards

    Profile boards

    Timber frames set back from the trench carrying the wall lines as nail marks. They survive the digger, which pegs on the trench line never do.

  • An open reel 30 metre fibreglass long tape measureEssential

    Long tape measure

    A thirty metre open reel tape for setting out and checking diagonals. A pocket tape cannot span a building, and joining two measurements introduces error.

  • A brass plumb bob on a string line

    Plumb bob

    A weight on a line showing true vertical, and still the simplest way to transfer a point between floors through a hole. Wind is its only enemy.

  • A long aluminium spirit level with bubble vialsEssential

    Spirit level

    A long level, ideally 1.2 metres or more, for walls and openings. On site the longest one you can carry is the one worth having.

Concrete & mortar 14

Mixing, placing, compacting and finishing. Everything here works against a clock, so having it all laid out before the first mix is half the job.

  • An orange electric cement mixer on a standEssential

    Cement mixer

    A rotating drum that mixes far more consistently than a shovel in a barrow. Consistency between batches is what stops a wall changing colour halfway up.

  • Mixing paddle & drill: A spiral mixing paddle in a heavy duty mixing drillEssential

    Mixing paddle & drill

    A large paddle in a slow high torque drill for mixing bagged mortar, screed and adhesive. Faster than the mixer for a bucket at a time.

  • A green builder's wheelbarrow with a pneumatic tyreEssential

    Wheelbarrow

    The most used tool on any site. A builder's barrow with a pneumatic tyre and a deep pan, because a flat tyre stops the whole job.

  • A round mouth shovel and a square mouth shovelEssential

    Shovel

    A round mouth for digging, a square mouth for clearing and mixing. Owning both saves more effort than any expensive tool on this list.

  • Concrete rake: A concrete placing rake with a hooked blade

    Concrete rake

    A heavy blade with a hook for pulling and spreading wet concrete to rough level. Doing it with a shovel is slow and never even.

  • A long aluminium concrete tamping beamEssential

    Tamping beam

    A straight edge dropped repeatedly across a wet pour to compact it and strike it to level. This is what makes a slab strong rather than just flat.

  • A walk behind power float machine with rotating blades

    Power float

    A spinning disc that polishes a large slab to a hard smooth finish. Hired by the day, and the difference between a garage floor and a proper one.

  • A wide concrete bull float on a long handle

    Bull float

    A wide float on a long handle for smoothing a slab from the edge without walking on it. Reaches the middle of a pour you cannot stand in.

  • Steel float: A rectangular steel concrete finishing float with a handleEssential

    Steel float

    Closes and smooths the surface after tamping. Used too early it seals water in, so timing matters more than technique.

  • Wooden float: A wooden concrete float with a handle

    Wooden float

    Leaves a slightly open textured surface with more grip than steel. The right choice on any outdoor slab that will be walked on wet.

  • A concrete edging trowel with a curved lip

    Edging trowel

    Rounds the edge of a slab so it does not chip. A five minute job that decides whether the concrete still looks new in ten years.

  • Jointing tool: A concrete jointing groover tool

    Jointing tool

    Cuts control joints into a fresh slab so the inevitable shrinkage cracks happen along a line you chose rather than across the middle.

  • Brick trowel: A bricklayer's steel trowel with a wooden handleEssential

    Brick trowel

    Lays and cuts mortar. Larger than a pointing trowel, and the one tool a bricklayer will not lend you.

  • A concrete poker vibrator with a flexible shaft

    Poker vibrator

    A vibrating shaft plunged into a deep pour to release trapped air. Necessary in foundations and columns, where tamping cannot reach the bottom.

Masonry & cutting 12

Cutting, breaking and shaping brick, block, stone and concrete. Every tool here makes silica dust, which is the reason extraction and water appear so often.

  • Angle grinderEssential

    Angle grinder

    Cuts brick, block, steel and paving with the right disc. The most useful and least forgiving tool on site, so guard on and both hands.

  • A petrol cut off saw with a large diamond blade

    Cut off saw

    A large petrol disc saw for deep cuts in kerbs, blocks and slabs. Hired for the day, and needs water suppression rather than a mask alone.

  • A walk behind concrete floor saw with a diamond blade

    Floor saw

    A wheeled saw that cuts a straight deep line into a slab or road. Hire it rather than fighting a slab with a grinder for a day.

  • Diamond blades: A diamond cutting blade for masonryEssential

    Diamond blades

    Blades with diamond grit that grind through masonry rather than cutting it. Different bonds for concrete, stone and tile, and the wrong one glazes over.

  • SDS hammer drill: An SDS rotary hammer drill with a masonry bitEssential

    SDS hammer drill

    Hammers as it rotates through concrete and brick. The bit slides in the chuck so the blow reaches the tip, which is why it beats a combi drill.

  • A heavy electric demolition breaker hammer with a chisel point

    Demolition breaker

    Breaks up slabs, footings and screed. Electric for indoors, hydraulic on a machine for anything serious, and hired unless you break concrete monthly.

  • A wide bolster chisel with a hand guardEssential

    Bolster chisel

    A wide blade for splitting bricks and blocks cleanly and lifting tiles. Struck with a lump hammer, never a claw hammer.

  • A lump hammer with a short handle and heavy headEssential

    Lump hammer

    A short handled heavy hammer for driving chisels and persuading blocks. Enough mass to do the work without a long swing.

  • A long handled sledgehammer with a steel headEssential

    Sledgehammer

    Two handed demolition and driving stakes. All the force comes from the swing, so control matters more than strength.

  • A brick hammer with a chisel end

    Brick hammer

    A hammer with a chisel end for trimming brick to fit without changing tools. Fast in the hand of somebody laying all day.

  • A diamond core drill with a large hole cutting barrel

    Core drill

    Cuts a clean round hole through a wall or slab for pipes and vents. Water fed and hired, because the alternative is a ragged hole and a bad afternoon.

  • An electric wall chaser with twin blades

    Wall chaser

    Twin blades cutting a parallel channel for cables or pipe. Far faster and neater than a grinder, and made for on tool extraction.

Groundwork & compaction 10

Digging, moving and compacting the ground before anything goes on it. Skimping here shows up as settlement years later, when it cannot be fixed cheaply.

  • A petrol vibrating compactor wacker plateEssential

    Wacker plate

    A vibrating plate that compacts hardcore, sub base and soil so it stops settling. Without it, paths sink and slabs crack, and no surface finish rescues that.

  • A petrol trench rammer compactor

    Trench rammer

    A narrow jumping compactor for the bottom of a trench, where a plate cannot fit. Compacts deeper than it looks, which is the point in backfill.

  • A pickaxe with a wooden handle and steel headEssential

    Pickaxe

    Breaks hard or stony ground a spade cannot enter. A point at one end and a chisel at the other, and no substitute in clay.

  • A builder's digging spade with a treaded bladeEssential

    Digging spade

    Straighter and stronger than a garden spade, with a tread for boots. Trenches and footings, all day, and it needs a shaft that will take it.

  • A narrow bladed trenching shovel

    Trenching shovel

    A narrow blade that cuts a clean sided trench for cables and pipe. Saves reinstating the metre of ground a wide spade destroys.

  • A twin blade post hole digger

    Post hole digger

    Twin hinged blades that lift a plug of soil out of a deep narrow hole. The only tool that makes fencing bearable.

  • A steel hand earth rammer tamper on a shaft

    Earth rammer

    A heavy steel plate on a shaft for compacting by hand around posts and in corners. Where a machine will not reach, this still works.

  • Aluminium screed rails and a screed board

    Screed rails

    Straight rails set to level that a screed board runs on, giving a flat floor over a large area. Guesswork over three metres is always visible.

  • A small yellow mini digger excavator with a bucket

    Mini digger

    A tracked excavator small enough to fit through a driveway. A day's hire moves what a week of shovelling will not, and needs a plan for the spoil.

  • A yellow site dumper truck with a tipping skip

    Site dumper

    A tipping skip on four wheels for moving material where a barrow gives up. On any dig over a few tonnes it pays for itself in a morning.

Access & working at height 8

Falls cause the most serious injuries on site, and every one of them happened from a height somebody considered fine. A platform beats a ladder every time.

  • An aluminium mobile scaffold tower with guardrails and castorsEssential

    Mobile scaffold tower

    An alloy tower giving a proper guarded platform, assembled by the user. Twenty minutes to build and the cheapest twenty minutes on the job.

  • Trestles & staging: A pair of adjustable trestles supporting a staging boardEssential

    Trestles & staging

    Adjustable legs carrying a staging board for a long low platform. What plasterers and painters actually work off indoors.

  • An aluminium extension ladder leaning against a wallEssential

    Extension ladder

    Reaching a roof or a first floor. For access rather than working from, at the right angle, tied at the top and a metre above the landing point.

  • Podium steps: An aluminium podium step platform with guardrails

    Podium steps

    A small platform with a full guardrail for working at ceiling height. Replaces the step ladder people fall off, and both hands stay free.

  • A low aluminium hop up work platform

    Hop up

    A low platform giving a couple of hundred millimetres of reach with a stable footprint. Used constantly on second fix and finishing.

  • A stack of timber scaffold boards with steel ends

    Scaffold boards

    Graded timber boards spanning between supports. Only within their rated span, since the failure mode is the board and the person together.

  • A roof ladder with wheels and a ridge hook

    Roof ladder

    A wheeled ladder pushed up the slope then hooked over the ridge, spreading load across the tiles. Walking a roof without one breaks tiles and legs.

  • A safety harness with a lanyard and karabiner

    Safety harness

    A last line where edge protection is impossible. It needs a rated anchor and a plan for rescue, because hanging in a harness is itself dangerous.

Fixing & fastening 10

Joining things together at site speed. The theme is that fixings into masonry work completely differently from fixings into timber.

  • A claw hammer with a steel shaft and rubber gripEssential

    Claw hammer

    Driving and pulling nails. The tool nobody lists and everybody carries, and a straight claw doubles as a lever for stripping out.

  • A pneumatic framing nail gun with a magazine

    Nail gun

    Fires framing nails as fast as you can position it. On any framing or decking job it turns days into hours, and it never gets pointed at anyone.

  • A cordless combi drill with a battery and chuckEssential

    Combi drill

    Drills, screws and hammers into masonry at a pinch. The one power tool that is on every belt, and the reason to pick a battery platform carefully.

  • A cordless impact driver with a hex chuckEssential

    Impact driver

    Hammers rotationally to drive long screws without stripping heads or wrecking your wrist. Different tool from a drill, and not interchangeable.

  • Masonry bits: A set of SDS masonry drill bitsEssential

    Masonry bits

    Carbide tipped bits for brick and concrete. SDS shanks for a hammer drill, round shanks for a combi, and they are not interchangeable.

  • Anchor setting tool: An anchor setting punch tool with expanding anchors

    Anchor setting tool

    Sets the expanding sleeve of a heavy masonry anchor properly. An anchor that is not set holds a fraction of its rating and nobody can see the difference.

  • Resin injection gun: A resin anchor injection gun with a cartridge and nozzle

    Resin injection gun

    Pushes chemical anchor resin into a cleaned hole for the strongest fixing available in masonry. The hole must be blown out or the bond simply fails.

  • A hand pop rivet gun with rivets

    Rivet gun

    Sets blind rivets in sheet metal and trim from one side. Common on cladding, flashings and profiled sheet.

  • A heavy duty hand staple gun

    Staple gun

    Fixes membrane, insulation and sheeting fast. Under it all where nobody will ever see it, which is exactly why speed wins.

  • A pair of long handled bolt cutters

    Bolt cutters

    Long handles and short jaws for cutting reinforcement bar, mesh and chain. Leverage does the work, so the length is the specification.

Demolition & clearing 9

Taking things apart and getting the debris out. Nearly every job starts here, and the clearing usually takes longer than the breaking.

  • A long steel crowbar with a flattened chisel endEssential

    Crowbar

    A long steel bar for levering, prising and lifting. Length is everything, since it is pure leverage and nothing else.

  • A curved wrecking bar with a claw endEssential

    Wrecking bar

    A curved claw at one end and a chisel at the other for pulling nails and separating timber. Where a claw hammer runs out of leverage.

  • A cordless reciprocating saw with a demolition bladeEssential

    Reciprocating saw

    Cuts through timber, nails, pipe and plasterboard with the right blade, in places nothing else fits. The demolition tool that does not care what is in the way.

  • Demolition fork: A forked demolition pry bar lifter

    Demolition fork

    A wide forked lever for stripping floorboards, roof battens and sheet material fast. Spreads the lift so it does not just split the board.

  • Rubble sacks: A woven rubble sack bagEssential

    Rubble sacks

    Woven bags for broken masonry, since normal sacks split immediately. Fill them half full, because a full one cannot be lifted.

  • A plastic rubbish chute section

    Rubbish chute

    Linked plastic sections dropping debris from a height straight into a skip. Beats carrying it down, and stops anyone throwing it.

  • Dust sheets & sheeting: A folded canvas dust sheet and a roll of protective sheetingEssential

    Dust sheets & sheeting

    Protects everything you are not working on, and cleaning up afterwards costs more than the sheeting always did.

  • An M class dust extractor site vacuum with a hoseEssential

    Site vacuum

    An M or H class extractor rated for construction dust, which a household vacuum simply blows back into the room through its filter.

  • A stiff bristled yard broom with a wooden handleEssential

    Yard broom

    Stiff bristles for clearing a site, and a swept site is genuinely a safer one. The last tool used every single day.

Lifting & moving 8

Getting heavy material where it needs to be without hurting anyone. Back injuries end more site careers than anything dramatic.

  • A steel sack truck with two wheels and a toe plateEssential

    Sack truck

    Two wheels and a toe plate that let one person move what two would otherwise carry. Look for a stair climbing version if you work in houses.

  • Board trolley: A plasterboard panel trolley on castors

    Board trolley

    Carries plasterboard and sheet material upright on castors. Sheets are awkward rather than heavy, and awkward is what damages them and you.

  • Brick tongs: A pair of adjustable brick carrying tongs

    Brick tongs

    Grips a row of bricks so several move at once by hand. Old fashioned, still faster than a barrow for short distances.

  • A foot operated panel lifter lever tool

    Panel lifter

    A foot operated lever that raises a board the last few millimetres tight to the ceiling or the board above. Two hands stay free to fix it.

  • Plasterboard lift: A plasterboard panel lift hoist with a cradle

    Plasterboard lift

    A cradle that winds a sheet up to a ceiling and holds it there. Turns a two person struggle into a one person job, and it is a hire item.

  • A chain block hoist with a hook and chain

    Chain block

    A geared hoist that lifts heavy loads by hand and holds them. Needs an anchor rated for the load, which is the part people guess at.

  • Material hoist: A compact material lift hoist winch unit with a crank handle and steel cable

    Material hoist

    A winch on a mast for raising beams and steels to a working platform. Hired, and far safer than any arrangement involving rope and optimism.

  • Adjustable props: An adjustable steel acrow prop

    Adjustable props

    Steel props that take the load of a structure while you work under it. Set on a spreader plate top and bottom, and never adjusted under load.

Measuring & marking 8

Marking out on materials and surfaces so cuts land where they should. Cheap tools, and the ones that decide whether anything fits.

  • A yellow site tape measure with a wide bladeEssential

    Tape measure

    An eight metre tape with a wide stiff blade that stands out unsupported. The blade width is what lets you measure alone across a room.

  • A chalk line reel with blue chalk and a hookEssential

    Chalk line

    Snaps a straight line across a floor, wall or sheet, over any distance a string will span. Nothing else marks ten metres in five seconds.

  • Carpenter's pencils: A flat carpenter pencil with a sharpenerEssential

    Carpenter's pencils

    Flat so they do not roll off a scaffold, with soft lead that marks damp timber and blockwork. Buy them by the box, because they vanish.

  • A set of wax marking crayons

    Marking crayons

    Wax crayons that write on wet, dirty and dusty surfaces where a pencil skates. What you mark concrete and steel with.

  • An inverted line marking spray paint can

    Line marking spray

    Inverted aerosol paint for marking dig lines, service runs and cut lines on the ground. Survives rain, which chalk does not.

  • A combination square with a sliding steel ruleEssential

    Combination square

    Squares, marks a repeated distance and sets forty five degrees. The most used marking tool once anything is being cut to fit.

  • A handheld moisture meter with pins and a display

    Moisture meter

    Reads how wet a screed, wall or timber is. Laying a floor covering on a slab that has not dried is a failure that shows up months later.

  • Cable & pipe detector: A handheld cable and pipe detector scannerEssential

    Cable & pipe detector

    Scans a wall for live cables, steel and pipe before you drill. The cheapest tool on this list measured against hitting a mains cable.

Safety & site setup 12

The kit that keeps the job legal and everyone on it intact. Falls, dust, noise and dropped weight, in the order they cause harm.

  • A white construction hard hat safety helmetEssential

    Hard hat

    Mandatory on nearly every site, and it has a shelf life rather than lasting forever. Replace it after any real impact, even if it looks fine.

  • A pair of brown steel toe cap safety bootsEssential

    Safety boots

    Toe cap against dropped blocks and a midplate against nails through the sole. The midplate is the part that prevents the more common injury.

  • Hi vis vest: A yellow hi vis safety vestEssential

    Hi vis vest

    Being seen by plant operators and drivers. On any site with vehicles it is the difference between being visible and being a hazard.

  • FFP3 dust mask: An FFP3 respirator dust mask with strapsEssential

    FFP3 dust mask

    The rating that filters fine silica from cutting masonry. Fit is the whole product, since a mask that leaks around the edge protects nothing.

  • A pair of over ear safety ear defendersEssential

    Ear defenders

    Breakers and cut off saws pass safe noise levels within seconds. Mount them on the hard hat so there is no decision to make.

  • A pair of clear wraparound safety glassesEssential

    Safety glasses

    Cutting and breaking masonry throws chips at speed, and grinders throw them further. Wraparound, because most eye injuries arrive from the side.

  • A pair of grey and black work glovesEssential

    Work gloves

    Handling block, steel and timber without shredding your hands. Off for rotating machinery, where a caught glove takes the hand with it.

  • A pair of work knee pads

    Knee pads

    Kneeling on concrete and screed all day does permanent damage. Trouser pockets rather than straps, because straps end up in the van.

  • A green first aid kit boxEssential

    First aid kit

    A site rated kit with large dressings, kept where everybody knows it is. Legally expected and eventually needed.

  • A red fire extinguisher on a standEssential

    Fire extinguisher

    Hot works, fuel and temporary electrics in one place. Within reach whenever anyone is cutting, grinding or welding.

  • Barriers & tape: A plastic site safety barrier and hazard tape

    Barriers & tape

    Keeping people out of the dangerous part, which is the whole of site safety in one sentence. Also what stops a passer by walking into an open trench.

  • Site lighting: A twin LED site light on a tripod standEssential

    Site lighting

    Task lights on stands so nobody works in their own shadow. Half of finishing quality is simply being able to see the surface.

Choosing construction tools

On site, the decision is rarely which brand. It is whether to buy or hire, and whether the tool is rated for the abuse a building site delivers.

Buy or hire, and how to tell

This is the only question that matters on the heavy end. A breaker, a floor saw and a mixer all cost more to own badly than to hire well, and hired kit arrives serviced with the blades and bits included.

The rough test is days per year. Anything you use more than about fifteen days a year is usually cheaper to own. Below that, hiring wins, and it wins even harder on anything with an engine, because the maintenance is somebody else's problem.

Buy the tools you use every day
Levels, hammers, tapes, a drill, a grinder, saws. These live in the van and pay for themselves in a fortnight.
Hire anything with an engine you rarely need
Wacker plates, floor saws, breakers, dumpers. Hire rates include servicing and consumables, and storage of a petrol machine is its own problem.
Buy access if you work at height weekly
A decent pair of trestles and a tower beats hiring for the tenth time in a year, and it means you can start when you arrive.
Hire the one big thing, then work around it
A single hire day with everything prepared beats three half days. Set out, break out and clear in one go.
Never hire consumables you use constantly
Diamond blades, breaker points and drill bits get charged at retail plus. Own the sizes you use weekly.

Getting it straight over long distances

A spirit level that is accurate over a metre tells you almost nothing over ten. Site accuracy comes from a different set of tools, and this is where most self build mistakes start.

The order is always the same: establish a datum, transfer it, then work to it. A laser level gives you a flat plane you can measure down from anywhere on the plot, which is how floors end up level and walls end up the same height.

One datum, marked and protected
Set a single reference height, mark it somewhere that will not move, and take every other level from it. Chains of measurements accumulate error.
A rotary laser for anything over a room
It sweeps a level plane across the whole site. Everything else is a compromise once you are outside a single room.
Check square with the three four five method
Three units along one side, four along the other, five across the diagonal means a right angle. It works at any scale and needs nothing but a tape.
Diagonals prove a rectangle
If both diagonals of a setting out match, it is square. Faster than checking four corners and harder to fool yourself with.
Profiles and string lines, not marks on the ground
Ground marks vanish the moment a digger arrives. Profile boards set back from the trench survive the dig.

Concrete and mortar without the panic

Concrete has a clock on it, and the clock starts when the water goes in. Nearly every bad pour is a tools problem rather than a mix problem: not enough hands, not enough barrows, or a compactor that turned up after the concrete went off.

So set everything out before mixing. Formwork braced, reinforcement supported off the base, tamping beam cut to length, floats within reach, and a plan for rain.

Have every tool laid out before the first mix
Once it is going off you cannot pause to look for a float. Rake, tamp, float, edger, all to hand.
Brace formwork for more force than you expect
Wet concrete is heavy and pushes hard. A blown shutter mid pour is unrecoverable in a way almost nothing else is.
Tamp to compact, float to finish
Tamping drives out air and brings the level up. Floating closes the surface. Doing them in the wrong order brings water to the top and weakens it.
Do not add water to make it workable
Extra water buys easy spreading and costs strength permanently. If it is too stiff, the mix was wrong, not the pour.
Cover a fresh slab
Concrete needs to cure slowly rather than dry fast. Sun and wind in the first day cause the cracking people blame on the mix.

Power tools that survive a site

Battery platform first, tools second
Pick one battery system and stay in it. Three chargers and four battery shapes in a van is how a working day gets lost.
Brushless matters more here than anywhere
Dust kills brushed motors, and site air is nothing but dust. Brushless tools last several times longer in this environment.
110 volt where the site demands it
Many commercial sites still require 110 volt through a transformer. That is a rule you will be sent home over rather than argued with.
Dust extraction is now a legal question
Silica dust from cutting and grinding causes permanent lung damage. On site work, on tool extraction and water suppression are expected rather than optional.
Match the bit and blade to the material
SDS for masonry, diamond for concrete and stone, abrasive for steel. Using the wrong one is slow at best and dangerous at worst.

The safety kit that is not negotiable

Building sites hurt people in four predictable ways: falls, dust, noise and things landing on feet. All four are cheap to prevent and expensive to repair, and three of them cause damage that never heals.

Falls first
Working platforms with edge protection, not a ladder and optimism. Most serious site injuries are falls from a height a person considered fine.
Dust masks that actually fit
An FFP3 mask against a beard or the wrong face shape leaks and protects nothing. Fit is the whole product.
Hearing damage is permanent and silent
Breakers and cut off saws exceed safe levels in seconds. Defenders live on the hard hat so there is no decision to make.
Boots with a midplate, not just a toe cap
A toe cap stops a dropped block. A midplate stops a nail through the sole, which is the more common injury.
Gloves for handling, off for machines
Blocks and steel need gloves. Rotating tools do not, because a caught glove takes the hand with it.

Mistakes that cost days

Setting out from an assumed square corner
Existing walls are rarely square. Check before you build to them, because everything after inherits the error.
Mixing before the formwork is braced
The pour will find the weak point, and you will be shovelling set concrete out of the wrong place.
Cutting concrete dry indoors
It fills the building with silica dust that hangs for hours. Water suppression or extraction, every time.
One tool for the whole job
A grinder will cut a slab eventually and destroy itself doing it. A hired floor saw does it in a tenth of the time.
Working off a ladder to save twenty minutes
The twenty minutes it takes to build the tower is the cheapest twenty minutes on the job.
No plan for the spoil
Every dig produces more material than expected, and a site with nowhere to put it grinds to a stop.

Frequently asked questions

What tools do I need to start on a construction site?
Boots with a toe cap and midplate, a hard hat, eye protection, gloves and ear defenders, plus a tape, a spirit level, a claw hammer, a utility knife, a chalk line and a cordless combi drill. Most trades add their own kit on top of that.
Should I buy or hire construction equipment?
Roughly, own anything you use more than fifteen days a year and hire the rest. Anything with an engine that you need occasionally, like a breaker, wacker plate or floor saw, is nearly always better hired, because the rate includes servicing and consumables.
What is the difference between construction tools and carpentry tools?
Carpentry tools are mostly about cutting and joining timber accurately. Construction tools cover the whole site, so they lead on setting out over long distances, concrete and masonry, access equipment, lifting and demolition. There is overlap in the hand tools.
What is a wacker plate used for?
Compacting hardcore, sub base or soil so it stops settling before you build or pave on it. Skipping compaction is why paths sink and slabs crack, and it cannot be fixed afterwards without taking the surface up.
Do I need a laser level or is a spirit level enough?
A spirit level is accurate over its own length. Once you are working across a room or a plot, a laser level gives you one flat plane to measure from, which is the only practical way to get floors level and walls the same height.
What is the difference between an SDS drill and a normal drill?
An SDS drill hammers as well as rotating, using a bit that slides in its chuck so the hammer blow reaches the tip. It goes through concrete and brick quickly, where a normal drill on hammer mode struggles and burns out.
Why is silica dust such a big deal?
Cutting or grinding concrete, brick and stone releases fine crystalline silica, which causes permanent lung scarring and is a known cause of cancer. You cannot feel the damage happening, which is why on tool extraction, water suppression and an FFP3 mask are expected on site.
What is the three four five method?
A way of setting out a right angle with nothing but a tape. Measure three units along one line, four along the other, and if the diagonal between them is exactly five units, the corner is square. It works at any scale as long as the ratio holds.
Can I use a grinder instead of hiring a floor saw?
For a short cut, yes. For anything long or deep it is a false economy, because a grinder cuts shallow, wanders, throws dust everywhere and wears out fast. A hired floor saw cuts straight, deep and with water suppression.
What is the difference between a tamping beam and a float?
A tamping beam is used first, dropped across the wet concrete to compact it and bring it to level. A float comes afterwards to close and smooth the surface. Floating too early brings water to the top and weakens the finish.
How much scaffolding can I put up myself?
Mobile towers are designed for competent assembly by the user, following the instructions and using the stabilisers. Tube and fitting scaffold is a trade in its own right and legally needs a competent scaffolder, not a confident builder.
What is the most useful tool people forget to bring?
A decent wheelbarrow and a shovel that suits the material. Every site moves far more stuff than anyone estimates, and a barrow with a flat tyre costs more time than any missing power tool.